Welcome to the Cedar Creek Brewing Company
All-Grain Homebrewing Tour

Last Updated 11/14/07

It All Started with a Book from Papa
Cedar Creek Brewing Company originated as the Bardenwerper Bier Company in 1987. It began with an (un-signed) first-edition copy of Charlie (Papa) Papazian's book: The Complete Joy of Homebrewing, a 20qt pot (plus a few other kitchen pots!), a trusty Corona grain mill, a Zapap double-bucket mash tun, and a 20' homemade copper immersion wort chiller and has slowly evolved into what it has become today.

The pictures below were taken from June, 2005 through October 2007 while brewing a variety of different beers including my favorite "house brew" - Red November Ale.

Red November is a deep redish-amber colored ale brewed with premium English Maris Otter, cara munich, and two varieties of crystal malts, plus whole Czech Saaz and Fuggle hops. Fermented with a traditional Irish top-fermenting ale yeast. It's deep in body, rich in flavor, complex in layers and has a rocky, tan head that clings to the glass. Murky to crystaline, depenfing upon age and conditioning, November Red is malty by style, yet balanced to hoppy by preference. Quite simply: It's my favorite. ...Yet Red November continues to evolve... .

Why Homebrewing?
What attracts me most to brewing is the sense of nostalgia, followed closely by the challenge of brewing beers in infinite variety, followed closely by the fact that brewing can be a life-long pursuit of deeper and deeper beer and brewing knowledge. Brewing is one of the very oldest of crafts. It has been theorized that the transition of man from hunter/gatherer to agriculturally based was due to the need for growing grain - for making beer! Throughout history, brewing has influenced more societal and technological advancements than perhaps almost any other single man-made item prior to about 1900. Brewing's rich history is present, sometimes dominant, in every known past and present culture on Earth.
Like many Milwaukee-ans, I have deep German roots, in my case literally tracing back to the twelfth century! For me, brewing gives me the feeling of a unique connection to my ancestors who were wine makers (and undoubtedly homebrewers) in Bingen on the Rhine, Germany.

Brewing is a balance of art and science, perfecting the craft to the best of one's abilities through process and technology. I thoroughly enjoy perfecting my brewing processes, all the while building, tweaking and improving my home brewery. Lastly, I homebrew because I love to brew! I love the process of brewing and getting great beer in return for my labor is a bonus. I enjoy seeing the reactions when I share my beer with family, friends and acquaintances who enjoy a hand-crafted beer and their enjoyment is my (priceless) reward!

Poison-Wine at 9, Fired Still at 15
Even as a young child I experimented with making "wine." I used berries I knew were poisonous and never drank the noxious stuff I made. I just liked "playing winemaker," going through the process of crushing the berries I found in our yard, adding sugar and water and boiling them, then fermenting them (with bread yeast) in a cider jug with tin-foil cap, then finally bottling and labeling the finished poison-wine.

Early on in high-school, I once made a gallon of rather crude apple wine from the lone apple tree (still) in my parents front yard. Thanks to inspiration from chemistry class, I then made a fully-functioning, alcohol-lamp fired, circulating water-cooled still in my parents basement. I proceeded to make apple brandy - much to my father's dismay! He took one whiff of my highly-aromatic, distilled concoction and said, with a slight smirk of amusement, wonderment, and perhaps even a bit of pride in his son's ingenuity, "You're going to either blow-up the house, make wood alcohol and go blind, or get good and drunk. Any way, nothing good can come form it." That was his way of telling me to shut it down. He was right of course. I got good and drunk! OK, no I didn't. I was too chicken to try more than a sip of what I was otherwise sure was a VERY strong apple brandy. In reality, I made about four ounces of the fire water. I took one sip and, well, some taste buds don't ever grow back! I promptly tossed the rest down the basement sink. I would start homebrewing only eight years later. What can I say, making wine and beer is just something that I've always held a fascination for.

All Grain Brewing - A Beginning with No End
I began all-grain brewing after my third batch of liquid and dried malt extract brews in 1987. The first beer was cidery and alcoholic from 50% sugar. The next two batches I used only dry malt extract and no sugar, they were much better, but still kinda thin and moreover, the whole process felt lacking. I wanted to learn how to really brew beer, the authentic way - grinding grains, mashing, sparging - everything a real brewery does! Not much more equipment is needed and I'd be able to brew the traditional, authentic way and make virtually any beer I wanted. Plus, it's less expensive and looked like lots more fun (it is).


My first couple batches tasted wonderful, full bodied and smooth, but with very low alcohol due to poor conversion and extraction efficiency. After a little bit of studying and some tweaks to my homemade equipment,

I quickly solved that problem and ever since I've been crafting brews like: Alder Wood Smoked Porter using home-smoked grains; Vanilla-Bean Porter using fresh, imported vanilla beans; authentic ca.1800 London Porter using specially home-roasted and smoked grains (following weeks of research); Belgian Cherry Wit using 20lbs of whole, frozen Michigan tart and sweet cherries; plus countless other beers including: English Bitter, English, American and India Pale Ale, Scottish Amber Ale, U. K. Brown Ale, and of course my Irish Red Ale. I even brew a traditional German lager from time to time.

All grain brewing gives the brewer total control over every aspect of the finished beer and has allowed me to be more creative in formulating recipes while attempting to create or duplicate anything I want! There is literally no end to the variety of beers one can create homebrewing. It's becoming accepted that many of the best beers in the world are not sold, but homebrewed. Indeed, homebrew often surpasses expensive microbrewed and imported beers! It's easy to get spoiled with great-tasting, fresh, hand-crafted, homebrew of your own creation - and it only gets better as one becomes more knowledgeable and skilled as a homebrewer!

Secret of My Success
Over the years I've brewed countless batches and made many mistakes in the process. In spite of my mistakes, I've always managed to brew good beer. Usually VERY good beer. Homebrewing is incredibly forgiving and often, mistakes result in improved beer!


If I had only one piece of advice for new homebrewers, it would be: practice great sanitation and you'll make great beer. Sanitation is the key to good beer. While some batches I've brewed have been better than others, I've never had to toss a batch of homebrew. I credit that success to always practicing good sanitation.

Guard Your Wallet - aka Brewery Upgrades
Building a brewery is half the fun of being a homebrewer. It seems most brewers enjoy making their own equipment, myself included. Do-it-yourself projects abound in homebrewing and range from astonishing complexity suited for engineers and PhD's, to very simple projects that almost anyone can do. See a couple of my DIY how-to brewing equipment tutorials below that fall somewhere in-between in complexity.

My brewery has slowly but steadily been upgraded over the last 20 years and I've been particularly active since 2001. In the spring of 2005 I acquired a partially completed, homemade 15 gallon conical fermentor. That fermentor is now completed and includes a dump-valve, rotating racking port, R15 foil insulation, and digitally controlled thermo-electric cooling to ale fermentation temps.

In August of 2006 I added a 10 gallon Igloo cooler for my new mash tun so I can now brew 10 gallon batches to better fill my 15 gallon fermentor. I also added a March 809 pump to fill the brew kettle from the grant and to pump hot wort through the wort chiller and fill the conical. The March pump replaced a hand drill-powered water pump that was a bit awkward to use, and eliminated having to lift any heavy kettles of dangerously hot wort.

Recently, I added a magnetic stir plate and Erlenmeyer flask for making yeast starters, a refractometer for measuring wort gravity, a digital pH meter for checking strike liquor, hot liquor and mash pH, and a digital thermometer - I was tired of how inaccurate my dial and floating thermometers were.

Looking into the Brew Kettle
What's next for the brewery? Hard to say exactly. Until I move my brewery outside and build an actual brewing stand, hence a full-blown rig, I feel I have built my system out about as much as I can. (Yea, right.)


Someday, if I ever won the lottery (I guess I better start playing), I'd like to add a binocular microscope so I could check yeast culture purity and viability, and wort for bacteria levels. More realistically, I'm working on (actually, just thinking about at this point) a plan for vorlaufing more easily with the pump - perhaps some sort of built-in vorlauf valve and non-HSA-ing nozzle in the mash tun. I've also been toying with the idea of making an in-line hopback from a stainless kitchen canister.

...And What of Papa's Book?
Well, it's the only piece of original "equipment" I still use. It's worn and tattered, some of its pages are falling out as I often refer to some of it's timeless info to this day, and yes, it still needs signing... .

If you have any questions, comments or suggestions, or just want to say HEY!, feel free to e-mail me at: werper@cedarcreeknetworks.com

Prosit from Milwaukee!

Tom Bardenwerper H.B.
Owner/Proprietor/Chief Pee-On and BrewMaster
Cedar Creek Brewing Company
Thiensville, WI. U.S.A.



CEDAR CREEK BREWING COMPANY

Click on the Images to View a Larger Picture.

Questions, Comments?
E-Mail me at: werper@cedarcreeknetworks.com

1. Grinding The Grain with a Barley Crusher roller mill. The ideal crush would be one where the husk is split in half and the kernel is broken into many pieces with little to no flour.
 

8. Holding a boil with one 2000 watt heatstick - no more stove-top boiling!
2. 60qt brew kettle in foreground and 30qt hot liquor tank in the background. Here, I'm heating water (called hot liquor) for the mash with a 2000 watt heat stick.
 
9. Checking the boil. While I always keep the kettle open somewhat for Dimethyl Sulfide DMS (etc.) to escape. I have found the lid makes an excellent boil regulator. More open gives a softer boil, more closed gives a harder boil.
3. Monitoring the temp of an infusion mash. This single step mash is simple to do in a Rubbermaid cooler turned mash tun. In the bottom of the cooler is a perforated stainless steel false bottom connected to a brass ball valve for draining.
 
10. Cooling the wort with a convoluted counter-flow wort chiller. Cold chilling water and hot waste water travel to and from the chiller and the kitchen sink on the left, while hot wort is pumped from the brew kettle on the right, through the wort chiller on the floor and up into a conical fermentor in the foreground.
4. 10 gallon Igloo water cooler mash tun above my old five gallon mash tun - now being used as a grant to collect and settle wort before pumping to the brew kettle.
 
11. Another view of cooling the wort. The hot wort exits the brew kettle on the left and flows to the pump on the floor. The pump pushes the wort through a convoluted counter flow wort chiller and up, into a 15 gallon conical fermentor on the right. It takes about 15 minutes to chill 10 gallons of boiling wort to yeast pitching temperature of around 68 degrees.
5. Conducting a starch conversion iodine test. A drop of iodine will turn purple/black when in contact with starch. When conversion is done and all the starch has been converted to sugar, the iodine will not react.
 
12. Sanitized bottles hanging on a bottle tree await filling with beer from a 15 gallon stainless steel conical fermenter.
6. Sparging in the Igloo mash tun while maintaining 170 degree sparge water in the hot liquor tank with a heatstick. Under the lid of the mash tun is a 10" Phil's sparge arm, gently sprinkling hot liquor onto the grain bed inside the tun and rinsing the grain of it's sweet malt sugar extract (called wort) that will eventually become the finished fermented beer.
 
13. Bottle tree, fermenter and bench capper.
7. Pumping wort from the grant (green cooler) up to the brew kettle. Allowing collected wort to settle in a grant helps brew clearer beer as fewer grain particulates from the mash are pumped into the brew kettle..
 
14. The whole brewery in action - 10 gallon, triple tier, all grain kitchen brewery.

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